Hi friends
When I go on trips to any wine country I naturally want to get
as much wine into my mouth as possible (it’s my job, man!). This
involves not only seeing as many properties as I can but also
sitting down for lunches and dinners with importers and by ourselves
and trying to drink different wines that we have not tried. I had
a conversation with Ken Onish (president of Southern Starz importing
company) in which he was praising the wines of the Bendigo district,
in particular the Shiraz grown there that he imports by the name of
Passing Clouds.
Located approximately 100 miles north of Melbourne this is one
of Australia’s prime red-wine producing regions. Shiraz is the
grape of note. Rainfall is typically about 15 inches annually.
Due to the modest rainfall and the lack of suitable ground water
yields are held to a natural low level (if you remember from
previous e-mails, vines that have to struggle produce better fruit).
Passing Clouds was established about 25 years ago by a gentleman
named Graeme Leith producing primarily Shiraz (Syrah) on deep sandy
loam creekflats in Central Victoria about 30 miles northwest of
Bendigo. The growing season is warm with very limited rainfall.
The 15 acre parcel survives on what water it receives during the
winter months and the ability of the old vines roots to search
deep to find any sustaining water (that is the purpose of old
vines-finding water and nutrients). That is the derivation of
the name Passing Clouds - they just pass by without leaving any
moisture.
Traditional winemaking methods are used including foot stomping
(yes, they still do that-as a matter of fact I jumped in a vat of
grapes myself at another property), hand plunging and basket pressing.
American and French oak is used, and the wine is fined with an egg
white.
But enough Ken, you say, what does the wine taste like? Why don’t
I let the critics have their say this time. This wine has been
reviewed in both Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and in Steve Tanzer’s
International Wine Cellar. I personally think this wine is superb.
First, The Wine Advocate:
2005 Passing Clouds Shiraz Reserve
A Syrah Dry Red Table wine from Bendigo,Victoria,Australia
Wine Advocate # 173 (Oct 2007)
Rating: 91
Drink 2011 - 2027
Cost: $30
The 2005 Passing Clouds Reserve Shiraz was aged for 12 months in
American oak. Opaque purple, it has a fragrant perfume of cedar,
pepper, blueberry and blackberry. Full-bodied and supple-textured,
on the palate the wine is nicely balanced with excellent depth,
well-concealed tannin, and a 45-second finish. This elegant effort
will evolve with another 4-6 years of bottle age and drink well
through 2027.
________________________________________
Next, The International Wine Cellar;
2005 Passing Clouds Vineyard Shiraz Reserve Bendigo 92
($30) Inky ruby. Intensely aromatic bouquet of boysenberry, kirsch,
Asian spices and musky underbrush. Round and fleshy, with deeply
concentrated dark berry flavors, supple tannins and a slow-building
smoked meat quality. Finishes with palate-staining length. Very
impressive.
Sale Price - $24.99 NET
Cheers,
Ken
Wine Director
Acton Wine & Spirit Co.
We reserve the right to consider any orders not picked up within
thirty days of the order date to be cancelled. Such wines will be
returned to open stock and sold off the floor.
|